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Elvaston Castle
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Elvaston
Castle and the surrounding parkland was the seat of the Earls
of Harrington until 1939.
The gothic-style castle was designed for the 3rd Earl of
Harrington in the early 19th century by the architect James
Wyatt, although Wyatt himself did not live to see his designs
carried out.
The gardens were created for Charles the 4th Earl of
Harrington by William Barron and a team of 90 gardeners
between 1830 and the Earl’s death in 1851.
By 1850 Barron had planted examples of every species of
European conifer then known at Elvaston, as well as an avenue
of limes which led to the Golden Gates. These gates, which had
previously adorned the royal palaces at Madrid and Versailles,
had been acquired by the 3rd Earl of Harrington in 1819.
Under the 4th Earl the gardens at Elvaston remained a private
place for the Earl himself and his wife.
Factoids
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Every species of
European conifer then known in 1850 was planted at Elvaston
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A Moorish temple
was built in the gardens
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It was Britain's
first public country park/estate
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The location for the film Women in Love
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Barron’s design created a series of theme gardens to the south
of the castle, including an Italian garden based on designs
from Tuscany, and the Alhambra garden which included a Moorish
temple
The bower garden, which became known as the Garden of the Fair
Star, had a monkey puzzle tree in a star shaped bed at its
centre, as well as many statues and green and yellow yew trees
clipped into different shapes. |
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It had to
wait for the succession of Leicester Stanhope as the 5th Earl
of Harrington before the gardens were opened to the public.
When the gardens were opened thousands of people visited them
despite the rather high admission fee of three shillings,
often travelling to Elvaston on special excursion trains.
During and after the Second World War the castle at Elvaston
was home to a teacher training college, evacuated for safety
from Derby. Every room in the castle was needed to accommodate
over 150 staff and students: the cellar was used as an air
raid shelter, and the Hall of the Fair Star became a lecture
room and common-room.
The acquisition of
Elvaston castle and surrounding land by the County Council and
Derby Corporation was completed in 1969, and the park was
opened on Good Friday 1970 and was the first of it’s kind in
Britain spanning over 200 acres of beautiful varied landscape |
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| Barron also planted several avenues of trees and constructed a
large lake on the site (where, incidentally, some of the
scenes in Women in Love were filmed). |
| The Autumn of
2003 provided some spectacular autumn foliage, here's a
selection |
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Elvaston Castle Country Park was the first park of its kind
in Britain. Following the proposal in the Countryside Act of 1968 that
‘country parks’ should be created to provide improved opportunities ‘for the
enjoyment of the countryside by the public’ in conveniently located areas,
the suitability of Elvaston as a site for a country park, situated only a
few miles south-east of Derby, was immediately recognised.
The acquisition of Elvaston castle and surrounding land by the County
Council and Derby Corporation was completed in 1969, and the park was opened
on Good Friday 1970. Prior to its opening, however, the grounds required
extensive work to overcome the problems created by over 25 years of neglect.
Many trees were pruned and restored, and shrubs were cleared to bring light
and air to other specimens. Unfortunately some areas like the Bower Garden
were beyond restoration.
Following the opening of the park, the lower stable yard was restored and
became home to the Working Estate Museum, opened to the public in 1980. It
was (until closed down by the County Council), a working museum where staff
in period dress helped visitors to experience something of the lives of
those who worked on the estate in the early 20th century. The top stable
yard was also developed to provide improved visitor facilities, including a
shop, information centre, and a schools' field studies centre.
The park spans 325 acres of varied landscape, including beautiful woodland,
gardens and open parkland. It offers a wide variety of facilities, from a
riding centre and showground to caravan and camp sites. A permanent nature
trail has been made there and part of the park has been set aside as a Local
Nature Reserve. Surveys have also been undertaken in the past to monitor the
wildlife and compile information on the different species of birds, plants,
insects and small mammals present in the park.
Elvaston Castle and the surrounding parkland was the seat of the Earls of
Harrington until 1939. The gothic-style castle was designed for the 3rd Earl
of Harrington in the early 19th century by the architect James Wyatt,
although Wyatt himself did not live to see his designs carried out. The 3rd
Earl also wanted to see a new landscaped garden to go with his rebuilt
castle, and offered the commission to a famous landscape gardener of the
time, Lancelot (Capability) Brown.
Brown, however, turned down the invitation because the area was so flat, and
so it was left to the 4th Earl Charles to finish the work at Elvaston.
Charles was quite a character. When he inherited his title in 1829 he had
earned himself a reputation as a dandy and Regency buck. He was a trend
setter, and attracted the friendship of the Prince Regent, who copied his
clothes, tea drinking, and addiction to snuff, the Earl had 365 snuff boxes,
one to use on each day of the year! He designed many of his own clothes, and
many of his fashions were copied, however odd.
In 1831 Charles married Maria Foote. She was 17 years his junior, an actress
and an unmarried mother (neither of which were socially acceptable at that
time). Although their love affair had begun in the 1820s, marriage had been
out of the question while Charles’s father was alive, and the affair was a
favourite topic of society gossips. The Earl was devoted to Maria, however,
and it has been suggested that the gardens he commissioned at Elvaston were
his tribute to their love (The inside of the Moorish temple in the Alhambra
garden was decorated with symbols of the chivalric love of a knight for his
lady, and there was even a statue of the couple showing an adoring Charles
at Maria’s feet!).
The gardens were created for Charles the 4th Earl of Harrington by William
Barron and a team of 90 gardeners between 1830 and the Earl’s death in 1851.
Barron’s design created a series of theme gardens to the south of the
Castle, including an Italian garden based on designs from Tuscany, and the
Alhambra garden which included a Moorish temple. The bower garden, which
became known as the Garden of the Fair Star, had a monkey puzzle tree in a
star shaped bed at its centre, as well as many statues and green and yellow
yew trees clipped into different shapes.
Barron also planted several avenues of trees and constructed a large lake on
the site (where, incidentally, some of the scenes in Women in Love were
filmed). Charles was impatient to see his new garden take shape, and so to
meet his demands Barron pioneered a method of moving mature trees from one
place to another. Some of the yews which became part of the gardens at
Elvaston were already hundreds of years old, and were transplanted over
distances of many miles to reach Elvaston.
By 1850 Barron had planted examples of every species of European conifer
then known at Elvaston, as well as an avenue of limes which led to the
Golden Gates. These gates, which had previously adorned the royal palaces at
Madrid and Versailles, had been acquired by the 3rd Earl of Harrington in
1819. Under the 4th Earl the gardens at Elvaston remained a private place
for the Earl himself and his wife. It had to wait for the succession of
Leicester Stanhope as the 5th Earl of Harrington before the gardens were
opened to the public.
When the gardens were opened thousands of people visited them despite the
rather high admission fee of three shillings, often travelling to Elvaston
on special excursion trains. During and after the Second World War the
castle at Elvaston was home to a teacher training college, evacuated for
safety from Derby. Every room in the castle was needed to accommodate over
150 staff and students, the cellar was used as an air raid shelter, and the
Hall of the Fair Star became a lecture room and common-room.
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Set four miles south-east of the city of Derby is Elvaston
Castle Country Park, a picturesque site featuring over 200 acres of
woodlands, parkland and formal gardens.
At the heart of the estate lies Elvaston Castle - a Gothic Revival
masterpiece designed by James Wyatt in the early 1800s, based on the
original house dating back to 1633. Wyatt's design, built for the 3rd Earl
of Harrington, became home to the Stanhope family until the estate was sold
by the then Earl of Harrington to Derbyshire County Council in 1968. The
Council have operated it as Elvaston Castle Country Park since then.
Surrounding the country house are the famous Grade II Listed gardens,
pioneered over a 20 year period back in the 1830/40s by William Barron, one
of the most influential gardeners of the century.
In addition to the formal gardens, there is acre after acre of woodland and
parkland incorporating a lake, picnic areas, children's play areas and a
caravan & camping site. A tea room, information centre and gift shop are
located in the Castle building. A working estate museum and stable yards
were also previously in existence on the estate until these were both closed
by Derbyshire County Council last year.
Sadly, the ongoing lack of funding and attention from the Council over
recent years has resulted in the Castle and grounds beginning to run heavily
into disrepair. As a result, the castle itself is now in desperate need of
restoration and, as such, is rarely open to the public nowadays.
However, despite the continuing erosion, the estate still continues to
attract hundreds of thousands of visitors a year, be it families having a
day out, community groups coming together to use the grounds or couples in
search of a romantic wedding venue - Elvaston is still hugely popular with
the public and has a place in the hearts of many.
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Springthorpe's Cottage
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The true love story of the Elvaston estate as we know it
today really begins in the early 1800s but the full history of the Elvaston
estate can be traced back to the 11th century and earlier with ownership
changing hands several times in the proceeding centuries. Records show Sir
Thomas Hanselin as one of the original estate owners before it passed into
the hands of the Musards of Staveley, followed by the Frenchvilles before
being purchased by Sir Walter Blount in 1420.
The estate then passed through several other families before it was
transmitted to Sir Thomas Stanhope of Shelford in the reign of Mary I, and
his grandson Philip, the first Earl of Chesterfield, commissioned a new
house which was built in 1633. A branch of the Stanhope family took up
residence in the house and oversaw various developments of the property over
the next century.
In 1742, the Elvaston Stanhopes took up the title of Earl of Harrington and
proceeded to commission more rebuilding. But the house as we know it today
really started to take shape when the third Earl of Harrington, Charles
Stanhope, commissioned James Wyatt to remodel the old house. Wyatt didn't
live to see his plans to fruition, the designs instead being executed by
Robert Walker between 1815 and 1829.
Amongst the changes designed by Wyatt (pictured right) were the gothic
façades which still grace the house today. A new great hall was added to the
west and a new wing added to the north-west. Much of the existing interior
was also Wyatt's design, including the spectacular screen of four-centred
arches, niches, fan vaulting and pendants in the great hall.
The fourth Earl of Harrington, Viscount Petersham, was nearly 50 when he
inherited the title and estate in 1829. He had a reputation as something of
a Regency buck, renowned for his stylish dress, tall and handsome looks,
charming personality and way with the ladies.
When he finally married in 1831, it was to Maria Foote - a Covent Garden
actress seventeen years his junior. Prior to their marriage, their affair
had been the talk of the town in both London and Derbyshire and their
relationship had been heavily frowned upon by the previous Earl and many
other members of the family.
Lord Petersham and his wife (pictured right) took up residence at Elvaston
shortly after their marriage. The couple were inseparable and besotted with
one another. The Earl would never allow Maria out of the grounds - nor would
he allow visitors in - such was his love and obsession for his wife. To that
end, the Earl set about creating an private and secluded oasis of great
beauty for himself and the love of his life - a Gothic paradise designed as
a symbol of his undying love for her. It is here that the Elvaston estate as
we know it today began to take shape.
The final phase of building at the house began in 1836 when Lewis Cottingham
was called in to rebuild the south front with the brief to give the facade,
still the original from 1633, a more harmonious look to match the rest of
the newer building work on the house.
The Earl also commissioned the work on the surrounding grounds. Respected
landscaper Humphrey Repton had originally been called in by the third Earl
to oversee the project, but Repton turned down the commission, daunted by
the unerring flatness of the estate. So, in 1830, the fourth Earl turned to
previously untried gardener William Barron.
Barron (pictured right) spent the next 20 years working on the surrounding
gardens, woodlands and pleasure grounds, introducing many revolutionary
designs and techniques to the grounds including spectacular topiary,
intricate drainage methods and a pioneering technique for transporting
fully-grown trees from one location to another - a method necessitated by
the Earl's impatience to see his gardens in full splendor which forced
Barron to bring in and plant full-grown trees for instant impressive effect
rather than planting saplings. Barron's work at Elvaston established him as
one of the most respected landscapes of his time and he and his successors
enjoyed much prominence in the business for the next century. The gardens
today, deservedly so, retain Grade II Listed status.
Following the completion of Barron's work, the estate remained shrouded in
privacy as the Earl and his Countess craved their seclusion. However,
following the death of the Earl in 1851, his successor, Leicester Stanhope -
the Fifth Earl of Harrington - finally opened Elvaston to the public. The
estate had amassed a huge reputation of the preceding years and thousands
flocked to Elvaston to see the glory of the house and gardens finally
revealed.
The estate remained under the ownership of the Harringtons for the remainder
of the 19th century and for much of the 20th, being occupied by the
Harrington's kinsmen the Lillingstons up to the onset of World War II.
During the war, the house was taken over by young women and turned into a
teacher training college after the original college in Derby was evacuated
for safety. The college vacated the house in 1947 and it remained mostly
empty for the next two decades.
With the house in a state of neglect and the grounds mostly unkempt and
overgrown, the estate was finally put up for sale by the Harringtons in
1966. Derbyshire County Council and the then Derby County Borough Council
were the joint purchasers. They set about a restoration project which
brought much of the grounds back to beauty (although sadly, some were beyond
restoration back to their full former glory) and the estate opened to the
public as a Country Park, the first of its kind in England, on Good Friday,
1970.
New features were added to the estate over the following years, including
the Working Estate Museum which opened in 1980. The top stable yard building
were also redeveloped to provide visitor facilities such as a information
centre, shop and educational centre.
But, by 1990, a combination of increased visitor numbers but dwindling
finances were starting to take its toll on the estate. Much of the pathways
began to show signs of erosion, as did the castle building itself. By the
late Nineties, the castle had fell into such disrepair that much of it was
closed to the general public, reopening only on occasions for rare open
days.
By 2000, Derbyshire County Council had admitted that they could no longer
afford the ongoing running costs of £500,000 per year, let alone the
estimated £3million repair costs to the estate. The Council therefore opened
up bidding for the lease of the estate to private bidders - a process which
has since lurched from failure to failure for the past 4 years.
Now, in 2004, the castle is desperately in need of restoration. The council,
in a bid to save money on the estate, have closed many of the facilities
including the Estate Museum and stables and now seem intent on leasing the
castle and grounds to a hotel group who will inevitably close much of the
remaining grounds to the public.
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Moorish Temple
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St Bartholomew's Church
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Harrington Tea Rooms
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